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The conversation finally stagnated and in a panic, I seized upon the first thing that came to my mind. I pointed and recited: “Not all those who wander are lost. People in Australia don’t get married until they’re in their late twenties or even mid-thirties.” He seemed scandalised. Our dates so far had consisted of holing up at each other’s residences and watching TV, where we were free to cuddle away from the prying eyes of the outside world.

“You have a Tolkein quote on your arm,” I said, rather stating the obvious. It’s a line from the poem: My Indian driver was quite concerned about my state of singledom and it was a topic he addressed on a weekly basis. “There are some women here who say they only date Arab men now,” my friend commented. The sun had set hours ago, but the humidity still hung in the air. “They say they know how to treat a woman.” She leaned in and whispered: “And apparently they are incredibly…” And here she made a whistling noise. Walking back from a takeaway shop at one point, we had dared to hold hands briefly, in a dark alleyway where there was no one in sight.

We met in the local marketplace, known as the Souq and picked out a Moroccan restaurant. After a quick discussion of the pros and cons of leaving the club in order to obtain a couple of Reykjavik’s famous late night hotdogs, we made our decision and ran outside. It is strange, how quickly the weird and wacky becomes normal. To know it was okay to wear shorts outside in hot weather. To walk hand in hand with someone and not have to watch my back.

Feeling daring, I chose camel off the menu, then sat back, unsure of what to do next. Afterwards, we smoked shisha and covertly played footsies under the table. He put his arm around me and I shied away from him. To exist almost entirely free of judgement and constraints.

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, I reminded myself as we sat down to a cup of tea.

“I met my wife when I was 17 and we were married at 18. I tightened my grip on the glass of my drink, grateful for the coolness of the contents. A figure had then appeared in the distance and we’d disengaged, feeling like naughty school children caught doing something wrong. He nodded and I watched the world go by outside my window.